LA COLORIMETRIA

LA COLORIMETRIA

La colorimetría es una ciencia que estudia y desarrolla el color para obtener una escala de valores numéricos. Los coloristas lo aplican a su trabajo a través del círculo cromático. Dicho círculo es la herramienta fundamental donde encontramos los colores adecuados a partir de los colores primarios. Todas las cartas de color pueden parecer diferentes, pero todas tienen características comunes. En cada una se utiliza una escala numérica que va en niveles: del número 1, que es el más oscuro (negro ), 2 , 3 , 4 castaño, 5 castaño claro, 6 rubio oscuro, 7 rubio, 8 rubio claro, 9 rubio muy claro, hasta los más claros que son los 10, 11 y 12. Es aquí donde aparece también el reflejo, que es el que le da el matiz al color y va a definir el mismo. Por ejemplo, el 7/3 que es rubio dorado y si su nomenclatura es compuesta, ésta definirá más aún el color deseado. Por ejemplo, 7/31 en el cual siempre el primer reflejo será el más predominante y el segundo más debil. En este caso se leería rubio dorado, levemente ceniza.
Los tipos de aplicación que existen van a depender del diagnóstico que deseamos obtener. Existen en el mercado las tinturas permanentes que son aquellas que cubren el cien por ciento de las canas y nos permiten aclarar u oscurecer varios tonos, dependiendo del oxidante, y según la marca se utilizará desde 10 volúmenes hasta 40 volúmenes para los superaclarantes. Si bien las tinturas permanentes suelen ser las más duraderas, el excesivo y mal uso de las mismas puede dañar o sensibilizar la fibra capilar, por eso se recomienda a las clientas que no se lo realicen fuera del salón de belleza. Las tinturas semipermanentes son aquellas que no tienen mayor poder cubritivo. Si bien pueden llegar a cubrir hasta un 70 por ciento de las canas, nos permiten lograr colores más intensos y variados, aportar brillo y durabilidad. Estas se aplican con aguas oxigenadas de 6 y 10 volúmenes. Las tinturas temporarias son aquellas que actúan sólo en la superficie del cabello y por lo general se van con el primer lavado. Hay otras que se denominan por contacto y suelen durar hasta 5 o más lavados.
La decoloración es la reacción química que tiene lugar dentro del córtex disminuyendo los pigmentos naturales y artificiales. Se pueden obtener dichos resultados realizando distintas técnicas de decoloración a las cuales denominamos barrido del color, gastado o limpieza de color. Tenemos que tener en cuenta fundamentalmente los fondos de decoloración más visibles, rojo anaranjado, naranja, amarillo anaranjado, amarillo, hasta el amarillo muy claro, para poder luego colocar el color o el matiz deseado. Lo importante para cada profesional es poder tener las herramientas técnicas para trabajar el color y desde ese punto de partida poder crear libremente un diseño de color perfecto.

El Abc de la coloración

Preparación 
Este es uno de los servicios en los que más cuidado se debe poner, y se inicia poniendo una toalla bajo el peinador para evitar manchar la ropa de la clienta. Es necesario charlar mucho con ella, saber exactamente cuál es su idea y de esta manera poder elegir el color adecuado. Es necesario precisar el color natural, cuántos centímetros de raíz tiene, definir el color deseado y el porcentaje aproximado de canas, observar la textura del cabello, la condición de las puntas, si existe base, si hubo pre-aclarado, la elasticidad y fuerza y examinar el estado del cuero cabelludo. Esto último es muy importante ya que si presenta alguna irritación, granitos o alguna herida, no podrá aplicarse ningún producto químico, ya sea de tinte o de base.

Oxidantes
Los tintes están hechos de compuestos químicos y requieren de un producto oxidante para que los pigmentos del color, también llamados tintes de oxidación, se desarrollen. Para ello, antes de su aplicación, los tintes deben mezclarse con una solución o crema llamada oxidante o peróxido. Se trata de agua oxigenada nivelada a ciertos volúmenes. El oxidante que necesitan los tintes va en proporción a la cantidad de tinte que se va a utilizar.

Tintes
Los tintes están elaborados de millones de pigmentos artificiales, estos son similares a la azúcar granulada, y al mezclarse con el oxidante empiezan a desarrollar el fenómeno de oxidación, es decir, se se van uniendo unos gránulos con otros para formar gránulos mayores. Al aplicar la mezcla al cabello, con la brocha de tintes o mediante un aplicador, los gránulos en principios muy pequeños penetran a través de la cutícula, llegan a la corteza y allí se van formando los gránulos mayores. Estos no pueden salir a través de la cutícula, por lo que quedan atrapados dentro del cabello. Por eso la importancia de aplicar un tinte con rapidez y de no mezclarlo hasta tener al cliente listo para su aplicación. Luego del tiempo de reposo, el shampoo ácido sólo elimina el excedente de tinte que quedó fuera del cabello y que no pudo penetrar, y no los pigmentos oxidados que quedaron dentro del cabello, que a su vez definen el nuevo color.

Volúmenes
La elección de los volúmenes del agua oxigenada depende de lo que se quiere conseguir. Su fuerza de aclaración se mide en volúmenes, para el uso profesional. Se encuentran en presentación de 10, 20, 30, y 40 volúmenes. Los de 10 volúmenes se utilizan para igualar color, 20 volúmenes para igualar y oscurecer, 30 volúmenes para aclarar, 40 volúmenes para aclarar en casos excepcionales. Los de 60 volúmenes no son recomendables porque se corre el riesgo de sensibilizar el cabello.

Niveles
Al realizar el diagnóstico en el cabello del cliente, es importante señalar que para determinar su color natural se debe utilizar la escala de niveles que se maneja a nivel internacional. En algunos casos varía un número más o un número menos, pero siempre será del 1 al 10 como mínimo, también algunas empresas omiten el 2 debido a que es muy parecido al 1 y al 3. La escala de niveles mide el grado de claridad u oscuridad de un color, por lo tanto se toma el 1 como el número más oscuro y el 10 u 11 como el nivel más claro.

Reflejos
En la formulación de las mezclas de tintes, hay que tener en cuenta la escala de reflejos, que ayuda a intensificar o neutralizar otro reflejo. Con base en un punto (.), guión (-), barra (/), o coma (,), la escala de reflejos permite identificar el reflejo que posee dentro de la gama de colores de cualquier firma. Si existe un número posterior a los signos (. , – /) indica que el nivel o tono del tinte lleva un único reflejo natural.

Polvos aclarantes
Existen varias marcas de polvos profesionales que, mezclados con los reveladores de 30 o 40 volúmenes, forman una pasta untable que sirve para hace efectos de transparencias, luces, rayitos y mechones; y para ligeras aclaraciones de tipo shampoo o enjuague aclarante.

Limpieza de color
Hay varias técnicas para la limpieza de color, que viene a ser una decoloración suave o media para lograr extraer los residuos o pigmentos del tinte anterior.

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